Thursday 10 July 2008
Milk Paint
Just some thoughts, comments and advice on using milk paint based on my (limited) experience so far:
I have only worked with Real Milk Paint � I love their products (look at their Soy-Gel Stripper and Citrus Solvent too) but there are other companies out there�
I highly recommend the Anti-Foaming agent. With our water, things ended up more like milk paint mousse until I started using this stuff.
I like using quart sized, wide-mouth mason jars for mixing and storing the paint.
If you just mix the powder and the water by shaking, you get a much more textured (gritty) paint that has a very interesting look, but will need some work (rubbing down).
If you use some kind of blender/mixer (I use a mixing wand � corded no less! I am so ashamed�) you get a very smooth and even paint.
Remember to stir the paint often as you use it � there tends to be a subtle shift in the color/consistency as you use it up. I probably extenuate the situation by always trying to mix up �just enough� to get by � sort of like Kramer and the fuel light.
It dries fast! You can do a second coat or top coat with oil/wax in about 3 hours! Love it!
Non-toxic! Yes!
Low, low odor! Sort of a pleasing wet cement-ish smell to my nose�
Normal mix 1:1 (powder:water) for opaque (two coats) or 1:2 for a wash.
Very easy to mix colors to create new hues.
Get the Color Sticks - way better than the computer monitor for judging final results.
Keeps in the fridge for a good while.
Cleans up with good old water!
Dries FLAT! Which some people find attractive � but I like it much better after the oil/wax hits it.
I usually make a test board or two and play around with the paint and oil combos. Sometimes I like the Tried and True Danish Oil (cradle) and sometimes I prefer the look of the Dark Tung Oil that Real Milk Paint also sells. On the latest project (chest) I just went with my own mineral oil/beeswax mix � also looked great.
Here�s a (totally staged) shot of my paint kit:
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